Right place if you
Have no hot water on LP or electric, rotten-egg smell, or a heater that lights then quits.
Water · plumbing
RV water heater troubleshooting
Most corridor coaches run Atwood/Dometic or Suburban-style heaters on LP, electric, or both. Start with fuel, power, and water path — not a made-up fault matrix.
Active corridor: Montana · Wyoming · Idaho · Washington — case-by-case beyond.
Field notes
TECH-PASS honesty: we diagnose with model-specific manuals and meters. This page covers common field patterns only — no invented blink codes or PSI charts. Prefer Text your heater brand/model photo when you want a visit.
Who this is for
LP vs electric elements
LP side
Needs gas, clean intake/exhaust, and a working igniter/control. Wind, spiders in the flue, and empty bottles are still top “failures.”
Electric side
Needs shoreline or inverter power at the element circuit, correct switch/ECO (energy cut-off) reset when tripped, and an intact element. No power at the junction — Prefer Text rather than guessing.
Both modes
Bypass valves left in winterize position send cold water around the tank. Map valves before parts.
Tank type
Glass-lined vs other constructions change anode and flush habits — follow your model’s anode guidance.
Common faults we actually see
- No hot: bypass valves, empty propane, tripped ECO, failed element, or control board — verify in that spirit, model in hand
- Smell (sulfur): often anode/bacteria interaction in the heater tank; flushing and anode service per manual help; sanitizing the fresh system may still be needed
- Relief valve dripping: over-pressure or thermal expansion — do not cap the T&P valve
- Spiders/mud in burner tube: seasonal LP cleanup
- After storage: drain plug sediment, then refill before firing electric elements dry
Anode and flush
Where your heater uses a sacrificial anode, inspect on a maintenance schedule. Flush sediment so the thermostat and element live longer. Use the drain method in your manual — forcing wrong fittings cracks spuds.
Owner pre-check before parts
Water path
Confirm the heater is full before electric heat. Air and dry elements kill heaters faster than age.
Fuel path
Other LP appliances working? Regulator frost, empty bottle, or closed valve look like a dead heater.
Access door
Clear debris from the exterior door and screen. Corridor dust and insects love burner tubes.
Manual first
Print or PDF the exact model sheet. Generic internet matrices skip board revisions we will not invent here.
DIY vs Prefer Text
Reasonable DIY
Confirm propane and 120V, reset ECO per manual, check bypass valves, flush when comfortable with drain plugs.
Book us when
Gas smell, failed ignition after basic checks, electric element/wiring heat, or winterize/trip-prep (winterize $175 / trip-prep $225 as separate line items). Prefer Text model plate photos.
FAQ
Can I run LP and electric together?
Many dual units allow both for recovery — confirm your model. Do not dry-fire electric.
Blink codes?
Use the manual for your control. We will not invent a universal code list here.
Tankless upgrade?
Possible on some coaches with correct venting, gas sizing, and water flow — Prefer Text; not a one-size swap.
Visit pricing?
Trip/labor below; Prefer Text for element or board unknowns.
Related: Fresh water pump · Tank sanitizing · Water filtration · Troubleshoot
Pricing teaser
Trip fee $75 within 30 miles, then $1.50/mi each way. Labor ~$150/hr (1-hour minimum, billed in 30-minute increments). Diagnostic $175 applied toward repair if you proceed.
Credentials (text): Victron Professional Certified Installer · weBoost Authorized Installer · Peplink Certified Associate · Dometic Professional Certified. Starlink = installs only (not a certified partner title).